Mary Ladd

Book Review: Slow Food Revolution

Take it slow! Enjoy the sensual side of things. If you must be lulled into such "beauty" (one of Alice Waters' descriptors), a great way to proceed is picking up a copy of Slow Food Revolution A New Culture of Eating and Living, by Carlo Petrini and Gigi Padovani.

Learning about unique, hand-crafted foodstuffs--Santo Stefano Di Sessanio lentils or Signora (cured meat) of Conca Casale, anyone?--in the Slow Food Revolution book makes for fun and interesting reading. These descriptions give good details on exactly the sort of Slow Food Petrini has in mind with his revolution. While I'm glad Petrini started working hard at getting folks to enjoy such small batch items, and focusing on the quality of their food and meals, I think he's still got a tough road. There's no arguing with his message that our lives are better when the food we eat is of a better quality--and the producers who make it are taken care of. Good, clean, tasty, fair, sure. Of course we want that.

The history of the Slow food movement is based in Italy, and covers big societal, political, and economic changes. Carlo Petrini has saved many foods from near extinction, and improved the quality of food and dining as a legacy. Perhaps most impressive, there is now a university dedicated to learning about farming, food, nutrition, and culture. (Imagine such a place! I'm sad I wasn't able to get my degree there.) Factory food is kicked to the curb as the Slow Food participants instead seek out the local, quirky foods, many decades or centuries old. One neat trick he's managed is to get farmers and producers to get a fair and decent payment for their products. The media spotlight helps promote their products as well as give them recognition for hard labor. It's inspiring to hear how humble folks from around the globe meet via Slow Food, and learn ways to survive and improve their farming operations.

It's good that the Slow Food organization continues to grow. The members will need strength. At least in America. Who doesn't try and eat local and artisanal? My bias: I guess I read enough food blogs to think this is happening often. Sure, it's wonderful to imagine having the time and inclination to slow cook meals that are always savored and enjoyed together, with a decent bottle of wine. But what about work? Cell phones? All those other distractions we run into? One thought I kept having while reading this book is that the Slow Food movement could only have started in Europe. I'm glad they've got their priorities straight and continue to influence the citizens of the world.

Mussels & Scallops, New Zealand Style

How nice it must be to have a net and boat, and be able to catch and eat accordingly. Every day. During our stay with relatives in New Zealand, we were amazed to share the bounty of fresh, untarnished seafood.

My Uncle Steven uses his boat out to check his net. The tractor-rigged boat ride to the beach takes three minutes from their house. There are a line of tractors since no ramps are used to get boats in the water. This tractor approach is used throughout the country, and I wish I had thought to take pictures.

On one net checking trip, we found a "small" sting ray that he called an Irwin killer. He cut the stingray off and the bottom of the creature looked like a ghost as it slowly opened and closed its mouth. Another Irwin killer had already been de-rayed on a different day. Steven had caught one that had a span of over five feet. It weighed down the net considerably, and made it tough to pull up.

One of my favorite catches are scallops, which must be big enough to warrant taking. Steven's boat is rigged with a ruler and diagram detailing mandatory size limits from the New Zealand government. The sign reads, "Size does matter," which seems like an interesting term to see on a government sanctioned guide.

Eating the scallops with the roe sack attached yielded luxurious, buttery  taste and a silky mouthfeel. Because the roe sack has a stronger, richer flavor and is highly fatty, it was recommended that we remove it after a few samples. Trying the scallop in its raw state seemed to be pure ocean: salty and a little sweet. Love at first bite.

Crab 2 ways-Slanted Door & First Street Cafe

Walking around in the sunny, warm weather made us hungry, and we wanted to eat food that would leave us feeling light and healthy. We were somewhat toxic with cobwebs in our brains from over-imbibing the night before with our pal "Iron Liver Shag" at the Royal Exchange, Enrico's (have you seen the 2 cats they keep tethered to the hostess stand?), and Vesuvio's. The Slanted Door's cellophane Dungeness crab noodles offered simple, balanced, tastes. Looking out at the ferries and Bay soothed our senses. The sweet, fresh crab brought subtle flavor to the noodles. Paired with a refreshing ginger Kaffir lime-aid (with vodka and a sugar rim), it became the building block of a great meal.

Scone lovers flock to downtown Benicia's First Street Cafe where almost all the baked goods, jams, dressings, and granola are homemade. My crab theme continued, as I indulged in the creamy, smooth and fresh Dungeness crab and artichoke heart sandwich. It's a blend of ample crab, sour cream, roma tomatoes, artichoke hearts, and Monterey Jack cheese. Big plans for lap swimming gave way to a gentle walk in Benicia's shops, followed by reading and sunning on my parents deck. Sometimes it's best to go with the flow.

Getting (Lobster) Tail at the Warehouse Cafe

If your idea of a good time is eating lobster tail in a funky warehouse with an awesome jukebox playin' in the background, consider the Warehouse Cafe in Port Costa, in the East Bay Area. The menu is small, and you will leave full. King Crab legs, Surf & Turf, NY steak, Prime Rib, Shrimp Scampi and lobster all come with surprisingly good chili and clam chowder, as well as a salad bar stocked with the usual suspects-romaine, olives, pasta salad, etc.

It's easy to overeat at the salad and soup station, so be careful. Just because it's all-you-can-eat doesn't mean you have to bust your gut. Save room for the baked potato with a thick side of real full-fat sour cream (such bliss!) and butter, and sauteed mushrooms. For sweet endings, there's ice cream or one house dessert such as cheesecake that tastes homemade.

Wine selection is minimal and the pours can be scant. Stick to the specialties: sample one or more of the Cafe's 400 plus beers from all over the world. If it's nice out, enjoy the outdoor patio, with views of the Carquinez Straight. There's cans for cigarette butts and the benches and tables are flea market hodgepodge, but comfy.

Although the Warehouse Cafe has been around for forty years, it hasn't changed much (if at all) in the twenty years I've been going there. They still have a massive polar bear, as well as other curiosities (posters, pictures, signs) with dark wood everywhere. The feel is circus meets David Lynch's wild dream meets the Old West. It's likely fellow diners will include a little bit of everything-from Harley riders, to families, and the occasional yuppie couple. Wear jeans and leather rather than fancy attire. It's a casual, friendly spot. Service helps set this tone, and the staff are genuine and smile often. There's usually never a wait for a table, since it is a warehouse with lots of space.

Warehouse Cafe, 5 Canyon Lakes Drive, Port Costa. 510-787-1827.

Seeing SF as a tourist

Taking a walking tour of San Francisco's waterfront gives a chance to try some culinary gems. Parking near the Ferry Building is a great starting point. Downer Alert! The parking meters run every day in that area. You don't want to find a $50 ticket that wipes the smile off your face.

In the Ferry Building, start the breakfast noshing on tasty Frog Hollow Farm savory (ham & gruyere) and fruit (apple & quince) turnovers. Wash them down with a strong cappuccino, orange juice, or regular coffee. Walk along the Embarcadero to Pier 39. It's nice to read SF-centric quotes on the sidewalk on the way. At Pier 39, the real attraction isn't the food or shops, but noisy (and smelly), frisky sea lions.

The Boudin Bakery at the Wharf has wonderful bread making demonstrations, samples, and a market place boasting Peet's coffee and many other culinary delights. Watch bread baskets float above your head as the bakers turn out animal shaped bread that may be hokey but still fun. Tempting jams, mixes, utensils, books, are fun to browse.

Next, keep your hunger and exercise going by walking to the end of the pier at Ghiradelli Square. There are swimmers and fishermen to check out, along with stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz, and Marin.

Grab a cozy booth and get ready for serious crab at the quaint Sabella & La Torre restaurant. The family run restaurant has been around since 1927, and offers a view of sidewalk seafood stands. A half cracked crab runs almost thirteen dollars, and comes with a salad chock full of shrimp. Other items are affordable, and the menu is primarily seafood, salad, chowder, and sandwiches. Mix the crab with fresh and tangy sourdough bread dipped in drawn butter.

Crab Simple

t I spent a whopping $29 on 2 cracked crabs at the Mission Market last night. This purchase has been in the works since October 1st, since I've been obsessing about crab. Every time I go in the kitchen, I see a huge platter of crab on this month's calendar spread (the calendar is courtesy of the Foodservice giant Sysco, nabbed during my brief stint of managing Ella's Restaurant).

Crab feast for one is easy (Oscar aka Mr. Football had plans watching the Chargers game and had already eaten). I heated some olive oil and butter on the stove top, and warmed up some fresh sourdough bread chunks (torn by hand for easy dipping). Final garnishes were 2 quarters of a lemon. Making a green salad is one option, unless you want to designate all stomach space for crab, bread, butter, and beer.

Because the crab was already cracked, it was easy to pull the shells off. The best flavor combo is a generous squeeze of lemon after a dunk in the butter, bread optional. I'll try some recipes using fresh crab soon, but the crack and eat method is simple and delicious.