Mary Ladd

Wagyu Beef grillin' and chillin'

The marbled, rich texture of Wagyu beef is pure juicy goodness. We recently grilled some Wagyu at my folks place, in Benicia.

While the $29 per pound wholesale price is steep, the beef's smell and flavor make it a worthy purchase for any serious carnivore.

Recommended side dishes: chunky herbed mashed potatoes (go smooth if that's your preference, of course!), grilled asparagus, and buttery San Francisco sourdough bread. The only dessert you may have room for after feasting is a piece of chocolate or nibble of a fruity tart.

CCA President responds to questions on tipping

Salad pic from last week's visit to the Careme 350 Restaurant at the California Culinary Academy.

Hello Ms. Ladd,

I am so glad that you enjoyed your experience at CCA’s new restaurant.  The students running the kitchen and dining room were excited to hear such great feedback about their work.

To address your concern about how we handle gratuities at Carême 350, I thought I’d offer a brief explanation.  As you know, CCA is a culinary school whose mission it is to train students in the culinary arts and hospitality fields.  Our student-run restaurant exists to provide a real-life laboratory for these students and those who work there are actually doing so as part of the curriculum.  This six-week course teaches students how to operate in a real restaurant environment, with 3-week rotations in each the front and back of the house.  The students working in our restaurant classroom are just learning the skills necessary to serve clientele in a fine dining establishment and therefore leaving a tip is not required at Carême 350.  Still, some patrons choose to do so, which led us to come up with a way to see that those funds ultimately benefit our students, but in a manner that doesn’t taint the learning environment we strive to maintain.  Therefore, all gratuities at Carême 350 are donated to the institution’s scholarship fund.

Periodically, we must hire additional students to fill in when a class is too small to keep the restaurant running on its own.  To make up for the fact that tips are not part of their compensation, we pay such individuals at a rate approximately 50% higher than the hourly wage of the average restaurant server in San Francisco .

I hope I’ve been able to clear up this issue for you and look forward to welcoming you back to Carême 350 in the near future.

Sincerely,

Jennifer White

President

 

 

Jennifer White | President

California Culinary Academy| Le Cordon Bleu

350 Rhode Island Street, San Francisco , CA 94103

Is there a Bourdain Brunch in Your Future, SF?

Late breaking brunch news: Tony Bourdain will not be making "cobra-heart omelets and fermented shark waffles" with Chef Erik Hopfinger at Circa Restaurant in the Marina tomorrow. I received email speculation that that was potentially happening. So I had to find out the truth and sent Tony an email. Yes, he is in town. But it's only for one day, to interview Hopfinger for a project he's working on. Tony is adamant that "if anybody believes I'm EVER working another brunch shift," they are mistaken. Ow. The Bay Area mourns a missed culinary opportunity.

Careme 350 lunch for $3.50

Yesterday's bargain lunch-three and a half courses for $3.50-at the California Culinary Academy's Careme 350 restaurant was a winner. The food was made and served by culinary students. There were some glitches; our bill was presented before we ate dessert, and sometimes we were waiting for utensils or food, but the light filled room and tasty fare worked. Everything looks clean and new at Careme 350. There  aren't defecating vagrants, smoking students in uniform, or flashing prostitutes outside the building, which was an issue at the CCA's old Polk Street campus.

Other diners included construction workers, office peeps, and a few grey haired senior citizens. The place was about 80% full and capacity is just over two hundred people. Nothing felt rushed, and the mood was happy. The $3.50 promotion was for both lunch and dinner yesterday, and included three and a half courses.Two senior CCA staff members visited tables to make sure customers were happy.

Le Menu was as follows:

Amuse Bouche
Spicy mini shrimp cake with lemongrass & chervil

Appetizer (choice of 1)
Sauteed portobella and oyster mushrooms, shallots, frisee and watercress with Jeres Spanish vinegar

Homemade pasta Greek style, with fresh oregano, feta cheese, Kalamata olives and Extra Virgin olive oil

Entrees
California Ling Cod gratinee with a Dijon mousseline served with steamed Tournee potatoes. 

Roasted leg of lamb with garlic, baby Lima beans and Linguica sausage.

Dessert
Chocolate tart with mango sauce

Almond cake with whipped cream, raspberries and strawberries

We did wonder about one thing: is it right (or even legal) for the Careme 350 to use "all gratuities" for their "scholarship fund"? I like the idea of helping with scholarships but don't feel this is the right way to do so. I'd rather the money go directly to the dining room and kitchen crew, as is the case at other restaurants. It's been some time since I studied restaurant law, but the Careme 350's policy seems unfair at first glance.

Never leave work just because your GF is mad at you!

This weekend, I was working in a kitchen on a wedding. The kitchen crew of five had just finished unloading the two company vans and was now setting up kitchen work stations. After a mere half hour on the job, a young culinary student slash Newbie caterer told us, "Sorry guys. I gotta go. My lady... I have to go take care of her."

"Is she hurt?" someone asked.

"Nah, nah. She's freaking out. Sorry to leave. This would've been fun, I know it," Newbie said. "She keeps calling me," he added. Why he was answering his cell phone at work, who knows?

The kitchen Boss Man, told him calmly, "OK, OK," which may not be how I would've responded. Then again, perhaps Boss Man has been in the biz long enough to be able to spot and deal with flakes easily.  It turned out we would be okay without Newbie's "help" for the event.

Newbie's leaving seemed unbelievably immature and wrong, but also depressed me. Newbie is about to graduate from the California Culinary Academy, which is my alma mater. His actions were a poor reflection on the school. If this was how Newbie operated, he was only setting himself up to fail at cooking. This wasn't the first time I had seen this sort of work ethic. There were also ample flakes (and crazies) when I was in cooking school.

Much later, at the end of the night, I laughed about the Newbie incident with the Boss Man: "Why was he taking calls? Is someone hurt or dead?" -- about the only reasons to take a call at work.

"I know!" Boss Man said, nodding his head. "That seemed a little odd that he was leaving." Odd, stupid, unreliable, and dumb.

I told Boss Man that another kitchen worker who was acquainted with Newbie told me that the girlfriend in question was "crazy, and total drama," which gave a little more insight into their relationship. This was the first time Newbie had signed up to work with the catering company. The chances of him getting emailed or called to work for them again may be close to zero.

Beretta

When I learned The Last Supper Club (TLSC) was morphing into Beretta, I was a little peeved. I liked TLSC’s pasta, good wine list, and convivial party vibe. One sweet touch TLSC had was to include a pesto for each table’s bread basket, which always tasted better than plain butter or olive oil. I needn’t have worried. The new restaurant, Beretta, still has a fun setting, interesting Italian food, with smashing drinks and affordable yet good wines.

Dare yourself to try Beretta’s specialty cocktails, with ingredients like Benedictine, tia maria, absinthe and Dubonnet. The improved whisky cocktail is potent and balanced, with rye, bitters, dubonnet, absinthe and a touch of maraschino. Think smooth and sharp. Wine by the bottle is an affordable and pleasing pairing with food, and decent bottles can be had in the thirty dollar range.

Beretta’s Italian food is skillfully prepared, and the cheery and hip wait staff does a great job at pacing. Highlights included a mixed meat antipasti platter with lardo, which is white fat from the back of a pig, peppery soprassata, and artisan salumi with giardiniera, otherwise known as pickled carrots and cauliflower. The arugula & fennel salad with shaved parmesan, also pictured above, is tender greens with a nutty flavor. Pizzas are a specialty, and are of the blistery thin type. Winning flavor combinations include: potato, rosemary, radicchio & gorgonzola; and prosciutto, tomato, arugula & mozzarella. It would be nice if the arugula was slightly more wilted, but that is a small quibble.

Beretta
1199 Valencia Street (at 23rd Street)
SF, CA 94110
415.695.1199

Champagne: Ready, set, pair!

Champagne shouldn’t be used just for the holidays. It can make the every day happy hour at home seem over the top special. Champagne’s sparkling bubbles lighten the palate, and work with both starters and well into the main course. Try pairing some bubbly with:            

Hearts of palm with prosciutto and Parmesan,

Smoked salmon with crispy vegetables,

Grilled brie and smoked duck breast with fig jam,

Hamachi tartare,

And with dessert:

Dark chocolate mousse with white chocolate whipped cream,

Warm apple and walnut with caramel ice cream,

Chocolate truffles

          

Party Platter Panache

Edible party platter garnishes are all the rage. It’s a great rule to follow in case one of your guests decides to help themselves to the garnish. Edible flowers, fruit, vegetable carvings, and fresh herbs make things look pretty and yummy. Sliced fruit (orange, lemon, and lime, alone or in a combo) also punches up a platter’s edge. Slice the fruit and lay on the platter. If doing a citrus combo, try and lay the slices on top of slices that are similar in size. That will look best to the eye.

Don’t forget to keep party platters clean during your event. I’ve learned from many catering companies that the best way to clean up a platter is to use a white vinegar and water mix. To do this, combine two parts water with one part vinegar in a squeeze bottle. (Not to worry if you go overboard on the vinegar.) If you don’t have a squeeze bottle, put the liquid mix into a bowl. Use a kitchen side towel to dab at the platter, cleaning away any leftover food and sauces. The vinegar cleans up gunk quickly, and leaves the platter looking clean and fresh. Add more food and get the platter back out to the party, stat!

R.I.P., California Culinary Academy Careme Room

"This is a funeral," one chef instructor told me. "I wore black," he added. We were mourning the last buffet dinner at the historic Careme Room at the California Culinary Academy, in San Francisco. The Polk Street campus will close this summer, after decades of food, learning, and enjoyment for culinary students and the public alike. The building is over one hundred years old, and used to be a German social club, bowling alley, and performance venue for Jimi Hendrix, the Beatles, and Janis Joplin.

The occasion felt mostly happy, perhaps due to an open bar and generous wine and champagne pours at the tables. There were lots of hugs and folks reuniting and catching up. All guests were comped for the event, which seemed like a nice gesture. I've heard that the price to attend the CCA is now over sixty thousand dollars and that enrollment is down, which is one reason the Polk campus is closing. My thirty five thousand dollar culinary education now sounds like a relative bargain compared to that steeper cost.

It would've been fun to see more fellow CCA alums in attendance. Guests included: Julie Tan, Roy Salazar, Herve LeBiavant, Serge Bled, CCA President Jennifer White, Tim Grable, Mike Weller, Chef Leo (recently retired after teaching eight thousand students!), Stephen Gibbs and Molly Fuller, Holly & Jean Yves LeDu, Emily Adams, Francesca Perata, Larry Michaels, Michael & Rose Rech, uber food blogger Amy Sherman (who had returned from a trip to Italy that afternoon), Beth Klein Seligman. Invites were sent out only seven days before the event, and what cook is able to escape work on a busy Friday night on a holiday weekend? Buffets were set up, but the room only seemed to have a third of its usual buffet contents. There seemed to be too much pates and meat, with a smidgen of Ceasar and fruit salads. I looked for endive appetizers, which were a buffet standby when I was a student. No go.

The menu: charcuterie, assorted smoked meats and fish, gallontines, ballotines, assorted pate and salads, fresh (moldy tasting) seafood selection, cheeses and fruits, hot entrees including prime rib, kobe beef, and trout. Desserts were flaming crepes, giant flaming Baked Alaska, chocolate and cheesecakes, and mini fruity/creamy pastries. Perhaps the best part was watching the teen aged daughter of Larry Michaels easily slice off the cork of a champagne. Chef Herve LeBiavant had a bigger sword, and took three tries. Next came the flaming Baked Alaska, which looked more than thirty feet long.

  Baked Alaska, anyone?

The Spices of Campton Place

Swanky Campton Place has an interesting hook on spices. I never realized tamarind can be hard green pulp. In the Mission stores, the ripened fruit is reddish brown inside. It makes a great marinade or tart and tangy drink, rich in Vitamin C. Tamarind pods are pictured above. The following list of spices is a sample of those used in the recipes of Chef Srijith Gopinathan:

The Spices of Campton Place Restaurant
Spice: Cumin
Country/Region of Origin: East Mediterranean to East India
Uses: Cumin can be used to season many dishes, as it draws out their natural sweetness.

Spice: Ginger
Country/Region of Origin: China then spread to India and Southeast/Southwest Asia
Uses: Fresh ginger is one of the main spices used for making pulse and lentil curries and other vegetable preparations.

Spice: Cassia
Country/Region of Origin: Arabia
Uses: Cassia is a close relative to the cinnamon, and has an intense flavor and aroma to desserts, baked goods, curries and meats.

Spice: Saffron
Country/Region of Origin: Southwest Asia
Uses: Gives food a rich, golden yellow hue and has a taste reminiscent of metallic honey with grassy or hay-like notes.

Spice: Tamarind
Country/Region of Origin: Africa
Uses: The hard green pulp of a young fruit is very tart and acidic and is most often used as a component of savory dishes. The ripened fruit is sweeter, yet still distinctively sour, and can be used in desserts and sweetened drinks, or as a snack.

Spice: Garlic
Country/Region of Origin: Southwest Asia
Uses: Has a characteristic pungent, spicy flavor that mellows and sweetens considerably with cooking.

When Setting the Table....

The beautiful client was picky, particular, and wealthy. I wanted her to be pleased, since this was only my second time working at her manse. In catering--like all jobs--paying attention to little details is vital. Plan ahead, think things through, etc., etc. Yet mistakes happen, and bring me back to Earth. I'd like to think my brain wasn't operating at one hundred per cent because we were on Day 2 of a heat wave. I had gotten little sleep the night before, and was worn out by the heat.

There were two hours for me to set the table and do other kitchen tasks. Easy, right? Well.... Forgetting the first course soup spoons shouldn't have happened. My boss and I went over the menu when I arrived to work. The maid had already set everything out for me, or so I thought.  I should've done an inventory for each course before I set the table. But it looked like that had already been done for me. I didn't realize my  huge error until the guests were seated and ready to eat. My boss was ladling and garnishing the soup bowls for us to carry out.

OMG. All of the sudden, I could visualize the place settings in the next room. Shit! I had put a spoon down, but it was for dessert. A teeny spoon sitting at 12 o'clock was not going to gain me any smiles or looks of support from the client (or my boss). I was panicking. There were no soup spoons on the table! Eeeek!

My boss said, "I told you! Soup, Mary! You needed soup spoons! Go!!"

Out to the dining room I walked-ran, to find the proper spoons. Talk about awkward. There were four drawers to go through. I finally found the spoons tucked under an antique looking cloth. By this time, half the soups were already on the table, placed by a co-worker. The guests were talking and hadn't tried eating yet. They were of the well mannered sort, whew. That bought me just enough time.

I worked my way around the table, neatly placing a spoon for each guest. The final spoon was set right before the last soup bowl arrived. Within a minute, they started daintily eating the soup. I reported back to the kitchen: "They have spoons. Soup's set," to my boss. She was visibly relieved but still peeved, and I apologized, twice. It took me all night to forgive myself, and I kept replaying the nightmare missing spoon scenario over and over again in my head. Pulling such a rookie move will do that.

Sichuan Hot in San Mateo

Eating at San Mateo's Little Sichuan Restaurant can be a hot, hot, hot experience. The dry fried chicken, shown here, and Ma Po Tofu (pictured below) were almost too much. Yet it was tasty, hearty, and good. Combining jalapenos and Sichuan dried chilies offered potent heat. There was also a pleasant hint of sweetness with the chicken that helped balance the spicy seasoning.

We specified that the food be hot spice wise, and Little Sichuan delivered. I noticed other chile eaters sweating and smiling. Many had Chinese beer, tea, and water. On some tables, there were bowls of broth with red chile oil or liquid on top that intrigued. Worth another visit.

Others may complain about the service, which can be spotty. On weekday lunch visits the service isn't always consistently good. Also, the restaurant has a worn feel. But I'm not going for decor or service. The spicy food with ample servings over rules these quibbles.

The restaurant has it's own parking lot, which is a bonus for the downtown San Mateo area. Also, you can walk through the "Mother Ship" Draeger's food emporium before or after your meal. It's right next door....

Little Sichuan Restaurant
168 E. 4th Avenue
San Mateo, CA
650.345.9168

Catering Tip: Pipe It

Piping bags are used to fill canapes, as well as drizzle everything from chocolate sauce to whipped cream and even savory pastes. Disposable piping bags are made of heavy plastic. I have two cloth ones from cooking school that get washed and re-used. Make sure to air dry sufficiently or you get mold or stinky smells!

If you forgot to buy or bring a piping bag to a catered event, you may be able to use a baggie. Of course, there's a catch: the baggie only works if the material you are piping is more liquid than paste. Think mayo, pesto, that sort of thing. To make your own piping bag, use a one gallon sturdy baggie. Cut the bottom corner off according to how wide you need your piped liquid to be: one quarter inch is a great measurement to start with. Don't make the hole too big or the liquid will rush out too quick and be too wide a ribbon.

If you are piping a thick dip, the plastic bag will start to tear in little slits. A baggie is not sturdy enough to handle the pressure of squeezing out thicker substances. Trying to force a baggie to work, almost guarantees you'll have a mess of oozing multiple holes. Not the best way to get things done or impress your clients and boss!

Hot Stuff Food Section & Book Round Up

Book tidbits and food section round up is on SFist today.

With the world's spotlight on China, Fuchsia Dunlop's new book Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper: a Sweet-Sour Memoir of Eating in China hits the spot. Her tales of eating and cooking are enticing. I can't stop thinking about her time in China, and how she pushed her way into kitchens and restaurants, to find out how to cook her favorite dishes. She eventually came to love the taste and texture of chicken feet, and other dishes that take some mental work for a non-native. She feels that learning to appreciate these weird textures are critical to truly enjoying Chinese food. I only wish she had included hints or even stories of love interests. It seemed odd to not know who she liked and loved during her fifteen year journey to China.

Bob Spitz's The Saucier's Apprentice is another interesting travel/cooking/eating memoir. He decides to pack up and learn to really cook after finishing a book on the Beatles and going through a divorce. Smart move. His journey to some of the finest cooking schools in Europe is funny, tasty, and touching. The characters-from fist fighting cooking school guests to hostile women folk are hilarious. Spitz experienced first hand that not every cooking school is worth shelling out money for, but he ultimately finds the recipes and knowledge, along with self acceptance and love, that he is seeking.

HDO me

HDO is short for Hors d'Oeuvres, which are passed "butler style" by waiters at events. I love servers who offer to clean the platter (using water and vinegar) when they return to the kitchen. That's much better  than handing it back all smeared and messy. I notice and appreciate the help; sample nibbles for you, good server!

Here's a recent sampling of HDOs served at a Bay Area event:

Endive & asparagus spears with dijon sauce

Butter lettuce with shrimp, toasted coconut, shallots, ginger, lime, peanuts, and a smidgen of jalapeno

Artichoke cake with sharp cheddar and onions, baked

Ancho Chili Chicken Skewers with guac dip-the leftover tasted great the next day.

"We're Sorry"

"Sorry. We didn't know," the catering boss lady said at the start of a recent shift. She was apologizing because of the clients. I had arrived early in the morning at a Peninsula location. We were providing breakfast and lunch for a group that had vastly different beliefs from my own. Other staff members were appalled and even disgusted, too. We checked out their literature and hand outs and stifled giggles and sneers. But it wasn't going to be fun. We were warned there was high security for this event, and to expect protesters and perhaps other disturbances. Great.

Yes, the group seemed to be outrageously nutty to me. I could think of rebuttals to every point they made throughout the day. But I remained quiet and kept working. I wondered who the attendees were. I was surprised such a large group existed in the Bay Area. Their program was piped into the kitchen. We decided to listen, even if we all STRONGLY disagreed. I thought I might learn something, and I did; some sad souls are out there.

"Why didn't you leave? I would've!" my friend said, as I recounted who the clients were. I shrugged. She has the luxury of a full time job, with benefits. That's not how catering works. The clients weren't a group of anti-abortionists or white supremacists. Truth was, I didn't want to jeopardize my standing with the catering company, and leave them hanging. Plus, I needed the money.

When I left, there were about twenty people marching on the sidewalk. I wanted to honk my horn, roll down the window, and say, "I'm with ya!" But I had my chef pants on. It would be foolish to make trouble for my employer, too. So instead, I turned up the news radio and sped away.

Hot Stuff Food Blog Round Up

Time for pizza, salt, and Ma Po Tofu over at SFist.

Chocolate Salon at Fort Mason this Sunday

Yum! The second annual San Francisco Chocolate Salon is here on Sunday. Tickets are $20 and include lots of chocolate and espresso samples. It's enjoyable and worth the trip for any chocolate fiend.

Taste of the Nation next Sunday

Taste of the Nation

Experience the Premier Culinary Event

Taste of the Nation San Francisco
Sunday, April 6, 2008
Acme Chophouse
24 Willie Mays Plaza
San Francisco, CA 94107

Buy your ticket to the hottest food and wine event of 2008 and help fight hunger at the same time.

Share Our Strength remains one of my favorite charities because they have great food events and are fiscally responsible. I am volunteering the day of the event, and have been on the event committee in past years. Share Our Strength's Taste of the Nation^® presented by American Express is the nation's largest and finest culinary benefit, featuring top chefs and mixologists -- all of whom will come together this spring to donate their time, talent and passion to end childhood hunger in America. Get your tickets here.

Iron Chef Michael Symon will be joined by three competitors from Food Network’s “The Next Iron Chef”, including Gavin Kaysen (NYC's Café Boulud), as well as San Francisco’s own Chris Cosentino (Incanto/Boccalone) and Traci Des Jardins (Jardinière/Acme Chophouse/ Mijita). Finishing with the dessert course again this year is Elizabeth Falkner of Citizen Cake fame and soon-to-open Orson.

Hot Stuff Food Blog Round Up

Dreamy Pavlova pic heads up this week's food blog round up on SFist. We ate a homemade "Pav" after our New Zealand hangi and it was sweet and memorable, made by my cousin's 80+ year old grandmum.