Mary Ladd

18th Street Block Party this Saturday afternoon

Happy Birthday, Bi-Rite & Delfina! I did prep work today for the upcoming 18th Street Block Party, happening in SF on Saturday. Jennifer Biesty was the boss, and we worked at Charles Phan's new gorgeous and huge commissary kitchen. 18th Street Block Party food includes pig, chicken, corn, beans, hot dogs, paella, sandwiches, smoothies, watermelon agua fresca, lemonade & more. There will also be booze, music, and wonderful weather. The wine and beer garden make my mouth water already.

To purchase advance meal tickets, call Christie Ward at 415-971-7291 or email [email protected]

I wish I could work on this bash, particularly to get the chance to work on a roasted pig. But. We are leaving early tomorrow for a wedding in Sebastopol.

Lamb Sandwich at Jordan's Restaurant, Claremont Resort

CHEF BROTHER MENTION ALERT!

My brother Josh Ladd is now the Executive Sous Chef at the Claremont Resort. I gave a him a few months to settle in before visiting Jordan's Restaurant. Jordan's is more fancy and elegant than the Paragon, but there is still tasty food and outstanding views. If you are a celeb watcher or Cal sports fan, the chances of spotting someone strolling around the lobby are highly probable.

The lamb sandwich was tender and tasty and I loved the addition of figs to the accompanying salad.

Jordan's currently needs a pastry chef. 

Sichuan Hot in San Mateo

Eating at San Mateo's Little Sichuan Restaurant can be a hot, hot, hot experience. The dry fried chicken, shown here, and Ma Po Tofu (pictured below) were almost too much. Yet it was tasty, hearty, and good. Combining jalapenos and Sichuan dried chilies offered potent heat. There was also a pleasant hint of sweetness with the chicken that helped balance the spicy seasoning.

We specified that the food be hot spice wise, and Little Sichuan delivered. I noticed other chile eaters sweating and smiling. Many had Chinese beer, tea, and water. On some tables, there were bowls of broth with red chile oil or liquid on top that intrigued. Worth another visit.

Others may complain about the service, which can be spotty. On weekday lunch visits the service isn't always consistently good. Also, the restaurant has a worn feel. But I'm not going for decor or service. The spicy food with ample servings over rules these quibbles.

The restaurant has it's own parking lot, which is a bonus for the downtown San Mateo area. Also, you can walk through the "Mother Ship" Draeger's food emporium before or after your meal. It's right next door....

Little Sichuan Restaurant
168 E. 4th Avenue
San Mateo, CA
650.345.9168

Breakity-Break

I have been told I need to slow down and rest because I have a son on the way, due in early October. Since this is our first (maybe only?) kiddo, I can't say for sure how long I'll be away. But I look forward to returning soon with more exciting food, drink, and related tidbits. Until then, cheers.

Santa Barbara: Lettuce B. Frank's Hot Dogs & More

Years ago, one of the perks of working in financial printing was the free employee meal. Although I hate eating at my desk and avoid doing it now, back then it was an unavoidable daily routine. One of my favorite free meals at the time was romaine salad topped with chili, and sides of pickled jalapenos, sour cream, cheddar cheese, and onions. This is hearty comfort food at its best, and I always love the interplay of textures and flavors.

I was reminded of how good this meal is on a recent visit to Lettuce B. Frank (LBF) on State Street, in Santa Barbara. We read a review that said something along the lines of "don't let the cute name fool you, it's good." None of us were in the mood for a long, complicated meal after a day of spending "quality" family time together on the road. LBF seemed to have something for everyone in our party (gender stereotype alert!): draft beer and massively loaded hot dogs for the menfolk; chili, salad, fries, and fresh aguas frescas and fountain drinks for the ladies. Another potential bonus: LBF tries to be fresh, organic, and local with its ingredients. 

LBF's chili ($4.95) is a Texas red version that comes with cheese and onions. While I usually prefer chili with beans, this beefy version tasted good mixed with the Caesar salad ($6.95) I shared with my Mom.  The cheese and salad offered pleasing contrasts. I stole occasional nibbles of hand-cut russet potato fries from Oscar and they pass muster. Dad and I tried the 2 house made hot sauces, which are both cayenne based. The milder hot sauce seemed to be fruitier. 

We sat at the counter, and the friendly crew took good care of us. Watching Dad and Oscar chow down on their Dog Pounder ($7.50) and chili cheese, (pictured above, $5.50) dogs made me queasy yet a little envious. I miss me a good dawg. At a 1/2 pound, Dad's 100% all beef NY style Sabrette hot dog, looked massive and tasty. LBF has only been open a few months, and they seem to be working hard.

Other interesting menu items include more salads, rotisserie chicken, beef or pulled pork sliders, fish and chips, mini corn dogs ("corn pups" as pictured above), cheese steaks, dogs (turkey, veggie, or all beef) and sausages with every kind of topping and sauce (hmmm items: creamy horseradish, maple, and pesto aioli).

Lettuce B. Frank
413 State Street
Santa Barbara, CA
T: 805-965-7948   

Book Review: Living in a Foreign Language

If you found this via The Menu Pages, welcome!

Have you ever wondered what it'd be like to pack everything up and move to Italy? A nice dreamy fantasy, but what would that new life really be like? It helps to have a Marin home to sell to make this a reality, sure. Still, I enjoyed reading actor Michael Tucker's chronicle of buying a cottage in the Umbrian countryside because he is obsessed with food and cooking. His passion is evident in every word, and his memory of each meal--with ever present vino, of course-- is fun and enjoyable. He has a constant internal debate about what to find or eat for his next meal, and admits to having a "greedy, gluttonous beast" that lies within. Reviewing the eating possibilities is always part of the fun. The reader gets to know Tucker and his wife Jill Eikenberry, who seem to be filled with love and joy even after decades of living and acting together. They've got the acting chops but are thankfully down to earth, fun folks, who lack snobbery or pretension.

Many readers who swoon over food may easily relate to Tucker's food and wine chronicles on all counts. His main priority while traveling and visiting new places matches those of "foodies": to find the best food spots. Sightseeing isn't necessarily as important as sourcing one's next meal, and sometimes the fun is in the journey of discovery. As Tucker puts it while describing one Italian outing, "Our itinerary skirted churches, castles, museums and such, and focused in a very direct way on food and wine." Having a new town and home in the Italian countryside gives him the luxury of time to meet and get to know local butchers, wine makers, restaurateurs, and the like. He also makes friends with a "merry throng" of fun and food loving ex-pats who are down for the best pizza, pasta or other native dish. It's an enjoyable trip to learn about, and Tucker rightfully knows he's lucky.

During his travels and life in the country side, he learns about truffle dogs, prosciutto, olive oil, strongozzi (a round noodle), cheese making, the rules of eating great gelato, and how to negotiate and speak in somewhat rough Italian. Risotto is still "the most magical cooking process," and one of the many tasty things he explores. Life is great, but hurdles do exist. There are permits and waits for their dream cottage to become a reality, but the anticipation seems to be par for the course, and a dose of reality. Their rustico inevitably becomes a haven for relaxation and enjoyment (yes, Tucker and Eikenberry still have an active sex life that he is not coy about), and seems like an ideal way to live and learn in a new country. How nice to have "time pass(es) gently; there's no sense of hurry or direction."

L.A. Law fans will enjoy learning Hollywood tidbits. The couple's shared history includes time in Marin and NYC, which is fun to hear about, too. Tucker and Eikenberry have participated in hippy dippy counseling sessions that may amuse and tickle. As they settle in for more simple adventures, it's easy to be lulled into appreciating their shared goals and way of life. The only burning question that may remain is, "How can I end up where they are?"

Find out more in person when Tucker and Eikenberry are featured at the Commonwealth Club on Wednesday July 25. Tickets are $8-$15, and check in begins at 11:30 a.m. If I didn't have to cater, I'd be all over this one.

Comfort me with Cheeseburgers

NEPOTISM ALERT (otherwise known as WHEN THE CHEF BROTHER MAKES AN APPEARANCE IN THE BLOG)! Here's what I would like to eat for lunch, soon. Food from the Paragon at the Claremont Resort, where my only brother Josh Ladd has been Executive Chef for a few years. I am a sucker for the Paragon cheddar cheeseburger, served medium rare. With fries. Bacon optional (usually not, since I want to save room for dessert). The burger is juicy, honeys! I usually try to go for lunch or dinner mid week. Josh hopefully won't be too slammed then and can pop out to say hi and gossip.

Sitting on the deck in almost any weather is a treat. Of course if it's raining, the views can be taken from inside. I can see Berkeley, Oakland, the bay, and San Francisco. If I turn my head all the way to the right, and look up, I can admire the grand suite in the Claremont where Oscar and I spent our first two nights together as a married couple. Of course I realize we are lucky to be able to enjoy the cheeseburgers and other perks stemming from Josh's hard work.

Hangover Relief: Pho

SF's Vietnam II restaurant was where I learned to eat pho, a beef noodle soup. During cooking school, it quickly became routine to meet my classmate, Rebecca, to talk about food, gossip, and enjoy the fragrant meal. Eating there meant I could easily get through class and cooking without getting ravenous (all bets off if foie gras or charcuterie were introduced, though). The sides make pho, and add flavors and wonderful scents: Thai basil leaves, bean sprouts, jalapeno slices, and lime (or lemon) wedges. It gets saucy with drizzles of spicy and piquant Sriracha sauce; hoisin adds sweetness.

Today, I needed some hot pho broth to help me feel alive. Drinking at Tosca Cafe in North Beach (celeb sighting! Ed Harris rockin' some odd sideburns) til 1:30 last night was fun, but my head and body are aching today. Thank goodness Pho Saigon, my current pho source in San Mateo, opens at 10 a.m. Each spoonful of broth gave relief, and the pounding in my head seemed to mellow considerably. The thinly sliced rare beef was tender and easy to chew, and tasted like heaven. I loved getting pieces of basil, that gave off a wonderful smell as I tore them up. Take that, dreaded hangover!

Restaurant Las Americas Pupuseria & Taqueria

Watching the ladies make pupusas at San Mateo's Restaurant Las Americas (Salvadorean and Mexican food) made my mouth water. The smells of fat and frying made the hunger even stronger. A pupusa is made by hand, and contains masa. Seeing a tub of Country Crock near the prep area made me wonder: Where's the lard or oil? What is that stuff doing in here?

One pupusa is more of an appetizer rather than a full meal. (I laughed when the woman looked me over and asked if I wanted 2 pupusas. Did I look that hungry and gordita in my slightly too tight Pixies shirt?) The small cabbage based side salad that comes with a pupusa is called curtido, which is pickled and includes shredded carrots. It helps cut the fat from the pupusa's filling, which is usually cheese or a mix of pork, chicken, cheese, refried beans or loroco, an edible flower. The prices at Las Americas are $1.75 to $2 per pupusa.

My main course was a pork torta that included succulent, juicy shredded pork, avocado, sour cream, and a side of red sauce (too watery and definitely not spicy as the woman said it would be). It was on a soft white roll that absorbed the pork's juices. Definitely delicious and not too much food.

Restaurant Las Americas is a clean hole in the wall joint.The staff is friendly. Other menu items are: platanos (plantains) with crema, tamales, caldo, sopas, chile verde, baked potato (for that Country Crock, perhaps?) and nachos. Agua frescas and shakes in tropical flavors tempt.

Restaurant Las Americas Pupuseria & Taqueria, 254 South "B" Street, San Mateo, CA. T: 650-340-1327.

Chorizo Burrito-entering the No Wimp Zone

Getting a super chorizo burrito can be a powerful thing. It's acknowledges ones feisty hunger for crumbly, fatty, spicy meat. Tapping into the sphere of taste and desire may take a lot of energy (especially digestion), but the experience may push you to plan your next chorizo burrito or meal. I typically eat chorizo in a burrito, but it can be wonderful with eggs or alone with beans.

Mexican chorizo is moist, with a hue that is brick red meets rusty orange. Eating chorizo takes more than one paper napkin, because orange oil drips on the chin and lips often. Lusty garlic, oregano, paprika and chili powder give full strength flavor.

Getting a burrito outside of the Mission sometimes brings disappointment. But whenever I spot a burrito truck ("roach coach" it may be-a term I picked up from my Dad), I know the possibility for a good burrito is near. Today, I tried the six dollar whammy of a super chorizo burrito from the Tacos Peralta truck, parked outside the BevMo in San Mateo. "Super" usually means cheese, guac, salsa, and sour cream, but this one only seemed to have melted cheese. (Next time I'll go for a regular burrito instead.) The burrito did offer a mountain of chorizo, beans, and salsa fresca that was tasty and filing.

I made sure to eat the chorizo burrito slowly. I had to, really, because it required constant napkin dabbles to keep clean. Spreading a newspaper sports section in my lap caught the few morsels that fell out of the burrito. The burrito was savory, strong, and hearty. The only thing missing was a nap tent for me to rest in after such a culinary undertaking.

Tacos Peralta Taco Truck, 342 East Hillsdale Boulevard, San Mateo, CA.

Prince of Wales Pub: Story of the Habanero Hamburger

I found some good reading material in the form of a brochure on last week's Habanero Hamburger outing to The Prince of Wales Pub. We talked to the owner briefly, and he told us he has a huge fridge at his house, always stocked full of habanero beauties. I proudly (dumbly?) consumed almost 1/4 of a Habanero Hamburger that was shared amongst four of us. We all wimped out, and left behind a spoonful of bright, red habanero on the plate. Jack'd surely be disappointed.

The brochure reads:

"Jack Curry, owner of The Prince of Wales Pub and longtime chili cook, began reading about the Habanero Pepper as he researched chiles for his award winning chili. After a panel of sixteen 'tasters' confirmed the legendary heat level was for real, the Pub's 'Habanero Hamburger' was first created in September 1992.

Billed as the 'World's Hottest Hamburger!?' (submitted to the Guinness Book of World Records) the Prince of Wales Pub requires each customer to first fill out a 'release form', but afterwards they receive the coveted 'I Survived The Habanero Hamburger' bumper sticker. Those not finishing the burger are part of the 'Perry Percentile', named after the first customer not to finish the burger (a whimpy Texan). Those eating all of the burger can join the ranks of Richard 'King of The Habaneros' Whiteley and Joe Recto, who each consumed five Habanero Hamburgers at one seating.

The Habanero Hamburger begins with a generous 1/3 lb. patty marinated with 'Windsor Burger' sauce, grilled to your liking. Massage in Jack's Habanero Sauce (fresh and/or powdered Habaneros) and served on a large garnished toasted bun. Have a cold beverage and remember - No whimpering!...

Habanero Facts & Lore

Habanero means 'from Havana' although it is not now grown in Cuba (the Dominican Priest Francisco Ximenez wrote in 1722 of a chile from Havana so strong that a single pod would 'make the bull unable to eat.'). It is widely grown in the Yucatan and throughout the Caribbean where it is known as the 'Scotch Bonnet' or the 'Bahama Mama' in the Bahamas.

Small and Innocuous looking, the habanero is uncontested as the hottest pepper in the world, the mother of all peppers. As one habanero lover puts it, 'When you chop, it smells good, and it entices you to eat.' But when you do, 'It feels like your lips are going to fall off.' Afterward you feel good (hot peppers are thought to trigger the release of endorphins, powerful chemicals in the human body that elicit a feeling of well being. One food writer calls it 'culinary skydiving.' It is said that you go temporarily deaf after eating a habanero so that you cannot hear your own screams.' "

Prince of Wales Pub, 106 E. 25th Avenue (near the race track), San Mateo, CA 94403. T: 650.574.9723.

Canned salmon questions from reader, Joe S.:

Question for Mary:

"My question for you relates to salmon. It's my favorite! and believe it or not, I like the convenience of buying it in a can (the boneless skinless can I buy at Whole Foods is really tasty).... but I'm wondering if you have suggestions for including it in a bag lunch to bring to work. I prefer not to eat it like tuna salad in sandwiches because I think the mayo corrupts the nutritional value.

I'd like to eat it in a salad, but it sometimes has a fishy smell that give me weird stares from my co-workers. I'm thinking probably just pour a can over a salad.... what do you think? If you want to talk me out of canned and into frozen, I'll listen. But I'm all for quick and easy."

A: Joe, as long as you are buying wild salmon, preferably Alaskan (gotta support my relatives), I won't talk you out of canned. Salmon is really good for you, and a nice choice for a healthy lunch. By the way, the bones are edible and an excellent source of calcium. There are many quick and easy ways to dress up the salmon, without adding mayo. A squeeze of lemon and sprinkling of chopped dill, right before eating is the easiest.

Add some or all: spinach, field greens, lettuce, green beans, avocado, broccoli, cauliflower, radishes, onion, pickles, bell peppers, and tomatoes. Keep the salmon in it's can until lunchtime, or else it will definitely get soggy with other items. If you like, try some non-fat yogurt with the blended mix-an acquired taste, but one of my faves. Goat cheese, feta, olives, or brie also taste good. Herbes du provence (dried) or chili flakes will add flavor. You probably won't want to add both, though.

Another option is to dress up a bagel or your favorite whole wheat or sourdough bread by eating the salmon with cream or Neufatchel cheese. Since the canned salmon isn't smoked, you should add some salt and perhaps pepper, to taste. Capers, fresh chopped dill or parsley, and red onion will help dress up the mix.

As for the fishy smell, I suggest you eat outside, or in a break room, if at all possible, to avoid those weird co-worker stares.  Maybe your food makes them hungry, maybe not. The fishy smell can be strong, and lingers. I've read many angry posts on the craigslist food & etiquette forums from people complaining about food smells like this. If you must eat at your desk, take your dish or garbage away immediately, so the smell can dissipate quicker.

Part II: Habanero Hamburger-after

I should've read the "Wall of Flame" website devoted to the Habanero Hamburger served at the Prince of Wales Pub before eating one, rather than the sweat filled hours that followed. Then I would've known what to expect. Tips like: the habanero's fire may travel through the body for many hours or even days later.... Or that I should "lay in a tub all weekend," and that it "burns more coming out than going in." 

Because I am a lifelong fiery foods eater, I hoped I could survive the Habanero Hamburger without having to seek solace in a bathtub. Oscar had other ideas. He thought our weekend plans to relax in Monterey would be ruined, that I'd turn into "Mrs. S," which is short for "Mrs. Stinky." He wondered how we'd be able to enjoy our hotel room if I was running to the bathroom every few minutes with a burning butt. These fears stem from what is known as the NYC noodle incident of this year, which had me laying on the floor of our hotel bathroom for one of the most draining and painful nights of my life, while Oscar hid in our room.

Half a day after eating the Habanero Hamburger, I did have some warmth in my tummy, but wasn't uncomfortable or gassy. I ate fish and chips for lunch on Saturday to further coat my system, wondering if I was going to break into a sweat anytime soon. That night, we arrived at our friend Amy Alamar's thirtieth birthday party, where I immediately sought out some fellow fire eaters, to brag about Friday's burger. The fellows were excited to try the burger on their own, and wanted full details, which I liberally and somewhat dramatically supplied. Their eyes popped as I described the burger's topping, "habaneros, horseradish, and chili oil," adding that I was proud to not "need one of the woosy ice cream bars they sell, afterward."

The birthday dinner at the Monterey Plaza Hotel was rich and delicious. I smirked a little to myself, as I thought about how easy the Habanero Hamburger was turning out to be. I ate rolls with sweet butter, lobster & crab ravioli in a cream sauce, roasted tomato soup, and a perfect medium rare petite filet with asparagus and a triangle of creamy potatoes. The Alamar/Blum/Cooper families know their beef, and like it bloody. Triumph tasted good.

A mere hour later, I began to lose the battle. Tiny soldiers took possession of my ribs and stomach. "I did this to myself," I whispered to my friend, Jen. I could barely breathe, and took three trips to the loo. Standing outside in the cold fresh air helped, where I halfway considered jumping one story into the cold, dark water, to swim the discomfort away.

Back at our table, Oscar shook his head a few times, in a silent, "I told you so," kind of way. Talking and sitting with our friends remained painful and uncomfortable, and I downed a bottle of sparkling water. I even took one more trip to the bathroom, for some satisfactory belches in a stall. Under normal circumstances, I am revolted by belches and burps, and never do it. Pain forced me to succumb to the gas.

After saying our goodbyes, Oscar and I walked slowly to our room, where I ripped my dress off to lay under the covers, naked. He supplied more water for me to drink. We watched TV together, as I tried taking bigger breaths. It took a half hour to be able to breathe comfortably again, and the little soldiers stopped stabbing me in the ribs with their bayonets. Oscar's arms usually offer me comfort, but I was grumpy and groaned, "Unhhhh," when he tried hugging me. I didn't tell him, but he was wrong on one thing. "Mrs. S" did not make an appearance at all. We both slept well in our cozy hotel room, and the Habanero Hamburger didn't cause me any more pain.

Would I eat the spicy, hellish combo again? Maybe. I would love to share the eating experience with other fiery foods eaters, but must remember the past. I shudder to think of having those little soldiers in my system again.

Habanero Hamburger-a hellish trip

Sweaty feet. Moist skin, allover. Bleary, teary eyes. These are all possible telltale symptoms of eating the "New Century's Hottest Habanero Hamburger" at the Prince of Wales Pub in San Mateo. Bragging rights come with the burger, along with a fluorescent orange bumper sticker declaring your accomplishment. Unadvertised effects could be: clear sinuses and extra energy. Part of the reason for trying the burger was novelty. My craving for beef is especially strong today, probably because I have a potent hangover that weighed my head down.

The Prince of Wales pub has a cheery beer garden that hosts throngs of men, of the business, preppy, and construction worker variety. I was the only female besides the bartender, and stood out in my short animal print skirt and glamour gal sunglasses. I laughed off the men's concerns, and gleefully signed the pub's waiver after ordering. The two bartenders joked about the ambulance that came to get a guy who ate the habanero burger, just yesterday. As I ate later, I wondered if maybe they weren't joking.

The pub rings a bell and calls out something about a hot burger when it's ready, causing the lunch crowd to cheer and call out, "All right!" The first bite of the burger brought a smile and almost half shrug. "What's the big whoop?" I wondered to myself, waiting for the heat. I finished the last three ounces of my Spaten as I continued eating. (To really get rid of heat, go for dairy, not water or beer). The heat gradually came on, and my mouth seemed to dry out as I continued eating. 

Halfway through, I began to feel as if I couldn't taste much. The fun of eating my novelty burger was diminishing quickly. Sweat poured down my face, and baby tears fogged my glasses. Looking at the five bites left made me sigh. The beef isn't the best quality, and may need more fat-80% beef, 20% fat usually works. I soldiered on. The last two bites were fogged over by more sweat and tears. I felt sweat under my arms and feet, something I am not used to.

I sashayed out of the pub to many a "hurray," after a quick stop to tidy up my grubby face in the loo. I doubt I'll put the bumper sticker anywhere but above my desk. I have to give the burger another try, because the euphoria of such high heat almost obliterates my above complaints.

Prince of Wales Pub, 106 East 25th Street, San Mateo-near the race track. T: 650.574.9723 

Goood Frickin' Chicken-a clean kitchen says it all

You may have heard about how cheap and yummy Goood Frickin' Chicken is. The place has a growing legion of fans from critics and regular customers alike. They give you heaps of freshly made food for a relatively low cost--most meals run in the $6 to $10 range with lots of leftovers. Don't forget how wonderful the housemade flat bread smells and tastes. These things of course impressed me on a recent visit. What really blew me away, though, was a walk down the stairs, to the restroom.

The stairs leading to the bathroom give a grand view into the prep kitchen, where produce is diced, chickens are marinated, and flour is mixed for bread. There were two prep cooks bent over their work, and one ran passed me to grab some supplies. Everything was clean and immaculate. I've worked in many restaurants and know it's a real challenge to keep mice and cockroaches at bay. It can turn into a constant battle unless all staff strictly follow clean up and storage procedures. Goood Frickin' Chicken looks like they have obliterated all messes and potential cockroach visits completely.

The above counter space can easily turn into a haven for little bugs, because its an ideal place to hide and consume sticky stuff, and crumbs. At Goood Frickin' Chicken, the pots and pans were stored in an orderly fashion. There was no dust, crumbs, or bugs anywhere. The soap containers at the hand washing station were full and had obviously been used to wash hands (rather than produce or poultry-a Biiig no-no) recently. Goood Frickin' Chicken has great food and low prices, but it's the clean factor that has wooed me to more visits. For a self proclaimed germ freak, that is Goood news.