Mary Ladd

Where the Chefs Go: Cookhouse Revs Up in North Beach

Images courtesy of Pamela Palma Photography

“I want to live here!” was the most squealed phrase at the Herbivoracious cookbook event for Michael Natkin at the aptly named Cookhouse venue. The crowd settled into a light filled room and many appeared comfy and happy with their meal and setting.

Cookhouse is a gorgeous North Beach nest that opened in February 2011. You can call it an event space, which it is. But such dry words hide the fact that Cookhouse is a sophisticated and vibrant spot that makes people wistfully cry out that version of “I could move here!” according to Director of Operations Amy Bryan. Climbing the stairs, one gets a decidedly mix of Paris in San Francisco feel. No wonder Cookhouse is ground zero for "in the know" birthday and anniversary parties, corporate mixers (leave that rubber chicken at the hotel banquet hall!), or perhaps an intimate dinner with the likes of Ravi Kapur, Stuart Brioza, Nicole Krasinski and Elizabeth Falkner before she decamped to the east coast. Prices depend on event, and more information can be found online here. San Francisco magazine is on to this celeb chef hangout and held a potluck here for a group of Best Chef Award winners last month.

Cookhouse has the kind of beautiful kitchen I love to work in: Thermador ranges and induction burners, MAC knives, Staub Dutch ovens, and a KitchenAid mixer. Neat freaks whoop over how well the cooking utensils are set up and organized, and the building dates back to 1913 and has served as a sound engineering office, bookstore and salon over the decades. It's clean, spacious and organized... the way I wish my home kitchen could always be.

Brendan Marshall of Kitchit has used Cookhouse for chef based events and said,

“Cookhouse has a nice venue with the facility to handle dinner parties of 20-30 people. For us, it’s all about connecting people with chefs. Cookhouse works for people who want a different venue.” 

Cookhouse’s Bryan confirmed that, “It’s a private venue you can rent for any use and it doesn’t have to be food related. That’s why we built it. We do a lot of private events, birthdays, anniversary parties, corporate team building, and classes. We even do a little bit of food photo shoots and filming here.” Professional cooking staff is available to help with the cooking and event flow, and Cookhouse has taken pains to work with local artisans and can order foodstuffs from Bi-Rite Market.

(Feed the) Machine: Caffeine, Sandwiches & Mayor Ed Lee

Where were you when San Francisco Mayor Ed Lee proclaimed today to be officially all about Machine Coffee & Deli (1024 Market at 6th, San Francisco)? His presence at the ribbon cutting added business-nerdy flair to the opening of the latest (yet smallest) food outpost from the folks behind neighboring Show Dogs and sister restaurant Foreign Cinema. The Machine space is of the order-and-go variety, and you can grab a seat outside.

Gayle Pirie was eating a croissant with jelly before the ceremony, and her husband John Clark received the proclamation from Mayor Lee. Clark talked about how he and his friends looked at renting in the area when he moved here 30 years ago. "It was quite blighted and rents were practically nil." Things are changing in the area: Pirie & Clark's work--with the help of their investors--are one of the motivating factors behind the revitalization of the area, which Lee said is continuing to attract other businesses. 

Halves of smoked turkey sandwiches from Show Dogs' Chef Peter Temkin and Four Barrel coffee samples were available after the ribbon cutting. Sticky buns from Foreign Cinema will be among Machine's breakfast options, and Temkin's lunch menu has house-smoked meats, sausages and roasted meats. 

Advice for a (food loving) future nutritionist

Usually I get emails from folks who are considering going into cooking, attending cooking school, or something similar. I almost always respond. Recently I received a polite request for advice from a woman hoping to become a nutritionist. Here's what I told her:

"Thanks for your email.

I would email and get in touch with folks in your area who are working on things that sound interesting. Offer to take them out for coffee or a other beverage (be sure to also try and pay for their drink!) and ask for twenty-thirty minutes of their time. I found people may be busy but are usually willing to talk about themselves and their experiences. I did this with many people and always sent a handwritten thank you note.

Also is there any sort of dietician professional trade group you can join? If so, do it. The IACP may have a branch for those in your field. Worth checking out, perhaps.

Another thing you can do is volunteer for events and things that will help build your resume. Show up early (I remember volunteering for an event and some volunteers were super late. It made them look terrible to the chefs & other folks that were there.) and offer to do dirty work such as taking out the garbage or similar tasks. Not glamorous but another way to find out how things are done. 

Read the food sections of the newspapers and go to the library or subscribe to industry publications.

I can't think of anything else right now but wish you the best of luck."

Tomato Expert Amy Goldman is in town. Eat up!

Seems like almost every culinary event or upscale market is stocked with gorgeous and tasty heirloom tomatoes. With so many varieties to choose from, it can be delish fun but perhaps a bit overwhelming for consumers. No need to be shy; help is on the way. "Gifted grower" Amy Goldman is in the Bay Area this week to talk about her new tomato tome, The Heirloom Tomato: For Garden to Table. The book is full of recipes, pics, tips, and mouthwatering photos. Food lovers and gardeners alike will find something to love here. Goldman is an expert gardener with books on melons and squash.

Wednesday, September 10
Commonwealth Club Blue Room
Lunch Time (11:30 a.m.)

In conversation with Dave Stockdale, Executive Director of The Center for Urban Education for Sustainable Agriculture

Friday, September 12

Book Passage at the Ferry Building

6:00 p.m. signing

Saturday, September 13

COPIA

1:00 p.m. lunch

Menu includes:

Cherry Tomato and garlic bread soup

Grilled beef with stuffed tomatoes, roasted potatoes and garden green beans

Galette of white peaches and tomatoes

Sunday, September 14

Carmel Tomato Fest

1:00-5:00 p.m. 

18th Street Block Party this Saturday afternoon

Happy Birthday, Bi-Rite & Delfina! I did prep work today for the upcoming 18th Street Block Party, happening in SF on Saturday. Jennifer Biesty was the boss, and we worked at Charles Phan's new gorgeous and huge commissary kitchen. 18th Street Block Party food includes pig, chicken, corn, beans, hot dogs, paella, sandwiches, smoothies, watermelon agua fresca, lemonade & more. There will also be booze, music, and wonderful weather. The wine and beer garden make my mouth water already.

To purchase advance meal tickets, call Christie Ward at 415-971-7291 or email [email protected].

I wish I could work on this bash, particularly to get the chance to work on a roasted pig. But. We are leaving early tomorrow for a wedding in Sebastopol.

Slow Food Nation Taste Pavilions

Slow Food celebrates "food that is good, clean and fair." These honey samples looked and tasted good. Other foods on offer at Fort Mason today at times took as long as forty five minutes to get. Thankfully, the Native Foods tent had a shorter line, and we gladly tried all three items on offer: bison chili (rich, thick, meaty, clean tasting), hominy, and wild rice cakes with a spicy kick. While I was happy to try something that reminds me of my Dad's Kwakiutl Native American heritage, I also found myself hoping that the cooks there would have a steady stream of customers all day. I had time to mull it over as we sat on hay outside, people watching, eating, drinking and talking.

It's great to have face time with the makers of these foods and drinks, sure. But it would've been a more satisfying event if the lines were not so long and slow.

Lamb Sandwich at Jordan's Restaurant, Claremont Resort

CHEF BROTHER MENTION ALERT!

My brother Josh Ladd is now the Executive Sous Chef at the Claremont Resort. I gave a him a few months to settle in before visiting Jordan's Restaurant. Jordan's is more fancy and elegant than the Paragon, but there is still tasty food and outstanding views. If you are a celeb watcher or Cal sports fan, the chances of spotting someone strolling around the lobby are highly probable.

The lamb sandwich was tender and tasty and I loved the addition of figs to the accompanying salad.

Jordan's currently needs a pastry chef. 

Litquake Smut tribute menu and pics

Work Date of Sunday, August 3, 2008

Event Description: Litquake fundraiser with light refreshments for approximately 200-250 guests. All food to be served at room temp until 10 p.m. or when food runs out. Guests arrive at 7:00 pm, show begins at 8:00pm.

Menu: Steamy & Saucy BBQ Pork Sliders, Creamy & Sexy Petite Quiches,  Sinful Assorted Cheese and Fruit, Gotta Have It Chocolate Covered Strawberries

Getting Guests to Leave

Sometimes, guests are having so much fun that they forget the specified end time of a dinner or party. Or that, beneath their smiles, the hosts may be really tired and aching for some R&R. What to do? Serving coffee isn't always the best way to cue guests to leave. Especially if it's warm weather, or the client didn't order tea or coffee service. There are other ways to get guests to leave besides the long standing tradition of serving coffee and dessert. Have your catering staff do some or all of the following:

Remove all food, plates, napkins, and the like. You may want to wait to remove the guests actual drink cups/glasses last.

Empty all garbage cans and recycle bins.

Begin moving and/or breaking down tables and chairs. The closer you are to guests when you do this, the more likely they are to get the visual cue to skedaddle.

Break down any bar stations, and remove all beverages.

Hosts, you can also disappear to your bedroom/quarters without saying goodnight. It may seem rude to not say goodbye. But if it's late, I don't think anyone can fault you. I can vouch for the success of this method from trying it at home as a last resort.

Perhaps the best cue of all is for guests to see the catering staff leaving. That happened at a recent event, and the last remaining guests stood up and began saying their goodbyes.

Homemade Habanero Salsa

On a recent morning, my chef brother Josh treated us to some homemade breakfast burritos. We were staying at his place in Benicia to visit relatives in from New Zealand. It was a zippy, filling, tasty way to start the day. I almost forgot the tweaks in my body from sleeping on an air mattress for five straight nights. Staycation never tasted so good.

According to Josh, "The salsa is pretty simple:

-Vine ripened tomatoes
-Red onion
Saute these two with a small pinch of sugar and some salt 'til soft.

-Roasted red bell pepper
-Roasted habanero
-garlic
Puree in a blender and fold in chopped cilantro."

Note the U.S. salmonella scare continues to grow, so be sure your ingredients are from a safe source.